How to Choose the Right Hairstyle: A Stylist’s Guide to Finding Your Perfect Look
By Marina Boukin, Master Stylist, Colorist & Art Director – Caprice Salon Toronto
Hello, dear friends! I’m Marina Boukin, master stylist, master colorist, art director, and owner of Caprice Salon. For more than 20 years, I’ve devoted my life to the art of hairstyling, image creation, and professional beauty transformations. Over these decades, I’ve learned one important truth:
No matter how fast trends change, the best hairstyle is the one that suits you.
A truly good haircut highlights your strengths, softens your features, balances proportions, and brings forward your natural beauty. If you’re looking for inspiration before choosing your style, explore our guide to timeless haircuts that never go out of style.
Why Choosing the Right Hairstyle Matters
A correctly chosen haircut is one of the most common concerns among clients — and I’m sure among anyone who cares about their appearance. Many people ask me about computer-generated hairstyle apps, so let’s start there.
Do Virtual Hairstyle Apps Really Work?
More than ten years ago, these programs caused a lot of excitement: upload your photo, pick a template, and see how the haircut “fits.” The problem is that it’s mostly entertainment.
A computer program cannot evaluate:
- Hair texture
- Hair density and thickness
- Growth direction and natural fall
- Head and face shape
- Body proportions
- Lifestyle and daily styling habits
- Your personal taste and comfort level
Only an experienced stylist can consider all these nuances and select a style that naturally works with your features and your life.
Step 1: Identify Your Face Shape
Pull your hair back, open your forehead completely, and carefully evaluate the proportions of length and width. The main face shapes are: oval, round, square, triangular (heart-shaped), and long (oblong).
Oval Face
Proportions: The length is about 1.5 times the width; the forehead is slightly wider than the chin. This is considered the ideal face shape.
Examples: Megan Fox, Eva Mendes, Julia Roberts.
Good news: Almost any hairstyle looks great on an oval face. You can experiment freely, keeping in mind your features, glasses, profile, and personal style.
Round Face
Proportions: Width is approximately equal to length; cheeks are fuller and the jawline is soft.
Examples: Kirsten Dunst, Emma Stone, Ginnifer Goodwin.
Your goal: Visually elongate the face and slightly reduce its width.
Recommended:
- Volume at the crown
- Vertical and diagonal lines in the haircut
- Side-swept bangs
- Layered cuts (cascade / layers)
- Graduated bobs with length below the chin
- Soft, slightly tousled styles
Avoid:
- Blunt one-length bobs that create width at the cheeks
- Heavy, straight bangs that shorten the face
- Very flat styles on top
- Very long thin hair with no layers (it loses all volume)
Square Face
Proportions: Forehead and jawline are similar in width, with a strong, angular jaw.
Examples: Paris Hilton, Demi Moore, Mena Suvari.
Your goal: Soften the angles and add a feeling of length and roundness.
Recommended:
- Soft waves and curls
- Layers around the face
- Side parts
- Asymmetrical haircuts (they visually “slim” the face)
Avoid:
- Very short haircuts that fully expose the jaw
- Strict, blunt bobs with clear horizontal lines
Triangular / Heart-Shaped Face
Proportions: A wider forehead and a narrower, sometimes pointed chin.
Examples: Jennifer Love Hewitt, Reese Witherspoon, Scarlett Johansson.
Your goal: Balance the wider forehead with the narrower jawline.
Recommended:
- Soft side-swept bangs or curved bangs that gently frame the forehead
- Volume below the cheekbones
- Wavy bobs
- Hairstyles with ends curled outward
- Side parts
Avoid:
- Big volume at the crown
- Hair tightly slicked back from the forehead
Long / Oblong Face
Proportions: Face length is significantly greater than its width; a higher forehead and longer nose are common.
Examples: Sarah Jessica Parker, Liv Tyler, Cher, Kylie Minogue.
Your goal: Visually shorten and widen the face.
Recommended:
- Heavy, straight bangs
- Chin-length bobs
- Layered cuts with volume at the sides
- Curls and waves
Avoid:
- Hairstyles with lifted volume on top
- Very long, straight hair without layers
Fine-Tuning: Facial Features and Proportions
Even within the same face shape, everyone has unique features. A good haircut can gently correct and balance them.
Forehead
- High forehead: A full, heavy fringe helps shorten the face.
- Low or narrow forehead: Light, wispy bangs soften the hairline without visually shortening the face.
Nose
I believe a distinctive nose often adds character and charm. However, if you prefer to balance it visually:
- Larger nose: Soft waves and bangs around the face help shift focus; avoid strict symmetry.
- Upturned nose: Hair lifted slightly off the forehead can visually lengthen the profile.
- Wide nose: Avoid hair that widens the face at the cheeks; instead, lift volume higher at the crown.
- Crooked nose: Asymmetry in the hairstyle works beautifully — side parts and uneven lines are your allies.
Eyes
- Wide-set eyes: A soft side fringe can visually bring them closer together.
- Close-set eyes: Open the face and avoid heavy hair crowding the center; this creates an illusion of more space.
For an even deeper transformation story, read how a bold new hairstyle changed one woman’s life in our article The Magic of the Change.
Don’t Forget Body Proportions
It’s also important to consider how your hairstyle looks with your overall silhouette.
- Curvier figures: Very short cuts can make the head look too small. Adding a bit of volume and length helps maintain balance.
- Petite, delicate builds: Extremely voluminous hairstyles can overwhelm the frame, making it look “top-heavy.” Softer, lighter shapes usually work better.
The Most Important Rule
I hope these guidelines help you better understand what suits you. However, there is one rule above all others:
Your hairstyle should be comfortable, easy to care for, and make you feel beautiful.
Very few people have “perfect” features. In fact, perfection is more of an idea than reality. Yet I meet truly beautiful people every single day — and my work is to make them look and feel even more beautiful.
If you feel you are still far from your ideal image, or if you simply want a fresh look and professional opinion, I invite you to consider a new style and use the help of an expert. For proper hair preparation at home, explore our guide on how to wash your hair the right way.
At Caprice Salon, I will help you analyze your face shape, features, hair type, and lifestyle — and choose a haircut and color that highlight your best qualities.
Book your free consultation:
📞 416-661-6327
We are always happy to help you. Stay healthy and live life fully!
Until we meet,
Your stylist, Marina Boukin
